Four sections covering light, watering, common problems, and repotting — so you know exactly what your plant needs and when.
Start reading →Most houseplants die from wrong light placement before anything else. Understanding what "bright indirect" actually means makes everything easier.
Within 1–2 metres of a south or west-facing window, but out of the direct sun beam. This suits most tropical plants: pothos, monsteras, peace lilies, and fiddle-leaf figs.
The sun's rays hit the leaves directly — on or very close to a south-facing windowsill. Only cacti, succulents, and sun-loving herbs genuinely thrive here. Most other plants scorch.
Several metres from any window, or in a north-facing room. Only a handful of plants tolerate this: ZZ plants, cast-iron plants, and snake plants. "Low light tolerant" does not mean "no light".
A spot that gets bright indirect light in summer can become deep shade in winter as the sun's angle drops. Move plants closer to windows in autumn and back in spring.
Overwatering is the single most common cause of houseplant death. The goal isn't a fixed schedule — it's watering when the plant is ready.
Push your finger 2–3 cm into the soil. If it feels moist, wait. If it's dry at that depth, water thoroughly. Most tropical plants want the top third of soil to dry out between waterings.
Pour slowly until water drains freely from the bottom of the pot. This encourages roots to grow downward. A shallow splash at the surface creates weak, shallow roots that dry out faster.
Standing water in a saucer keeps the bottom of the pot saturated and leads to root rot within days. Let the excess drain, then tip it out.
In winter, most houseplants slow down significantly. Cut watering frequency by roughly half. A plant that needed water every 7 days in summer might only need it every 14–18 days in winter.
Cold tap water can shock tropical roots and cause leaf drop. Leave water in a jug overnight to reach room temperature — it also lets chlorine dissipate, which sensitive plants prefer.
Most houseplant problems have a visible signature. Here's how to read the signs and correct course before the plant declines too far.
Widespread yellowing, soft mushy stems at the base, soil staying wet for days after watering.
Allow the soil to dry out fully. Check roots — brown, mushy roots need to be trimmed back to white healthy tissue before repotting into fresh, well-draining mix.
Dry edges and tips, especially on long-leafed plants like dracaenas, spider plants, or peace lilies.
Group plants together to raise humidity, or use a pebble tray with water. Switch to filtered or rainwater for sensitive species. Trim brown tips with clean scissors — cut at an angle to look natural.
New stems grow long and weak, leaves are spaced far apart and smaller than usual.
Move the plant closer to a window or to a brighter room. Prune leggy stems to encourage bushier growth — most plants respond well to a trim just above a leaf node.
Small dots on leaf undersides, white fluff in crevices, sticky honeydew on leaves or surfaces below the plant.
Move the plant away from others immediately. Wipe leaves with neem oil solution or insecticidal soap. Repeat weekly for 3–4 weeks to break the lifecycle. Check neighbouring plants.
Repotting too soon is just as harmful as waiting too long. Here's how to read the signals and execute the move without stressing the plant.
Roots circling the bottom of the pot, roots growing out of drainage holes, soil drying out within a day or two of watering, or noticeably stunted growth despite good light and water.
Go up only one size at a time — typically 3–5 cm wider in diameter. A pot that's too large holds excess moisture the roots can't absorb, leading to root rot even with correct watering.
Most tropical plants want a light, well-draining mix: standard potting compost with added perlite (roughly 70:30). Cacti and succulents need even more grit. Orchids need bark, not soil.
Repot in spring or early summer when the plant is actively growing and can recover quickly. Avoid repotting in autumn or winter — the plant is slowing down and takes much longer to settle.
Water thoroughly once after repotting, then hold off for 1–2 weeks. Place in bright indirect light (not direct sun) for the first month. Expect some leaf drop or wilting — this is normal transplant shock.
Always use a pot with at least one drainage hole. Decorative pots without holes trap water at the root zone. Either drill a hole or use the decorative pot as a sleeve around a plain nursery pot.
The questions that come up most — answered plainly.